For those of us who work 9-5 jobs, doing a big thru-hike like the Pacific Crest Trail is pretty much off the table. Weekends and holiday breaks are our best chance to get out there, hit the trail, and explore the backcountry.
Not all weekend itineraries are created equal, though, and on a recent 96-mile backpacking trip in Oregon, I discovered one that’s hard to beat. Though the full Oregon Coast Trail (OCT) runs 400 miles down the eastern side of the state, a weekend-friendly 28 miles between Fort Stevens State Park and Cannon Beach are quite possibly its most scenic.
You’ll walk across pristine sand beaches and traverse stunningly lush forests, all with easy access to campsites and small seaside towns, all without having to pull a single permit. Here’s what you need to know to embark on this bucket-list–worthy trip.
Oregon Coast Trail: Highlights
I did the first 96 miles of the OCT, but this 28-mile section was my absolute favorite. The trail is easy to follow and pretty flat; the relative ease of the trail allowed me to focus on the surroundings and relax.
You’ll also be up close and personal with the mighty Pacific Ocean. Hiking for miles along quiet sand beaches, right next to the waves, was a special experience: a reminder of the power of nature, prompting contemplation and introspection.
The sections through temperate rainforests of Sitka spruces, Douglas firs, and Western hemlocks feel like something out of a science fiction movie. Everything is so green and alive; a variety of birdsong is the soundtrack to your hike.
Normally, Oregon State Parks and sites charge $10 as a day-use fee, but that only applies to vehicles. Hikers will hike through four state parks and recreation sites, all for free.
The Weekender Itinerary
On day one, you’ll start in Fort Stevens State Park, which is close to the towns of Warrenton and Astoria. I came in the night before and stayed at the campground before setting off. From there, hikers spend 11.5 miles on the beach. Thanks to the 1967 Oregon Beach Bill, which legally required free public access to all of the Pacific coastline in the state, there is no development on the beach itself. Miles and miles of uninterrupted coastline await you.
Next, you’ll cross through the small village of Gearhart and the larger tourist town of Seaside. Both are great spots to stop and grab a coffee, pastry, or lunch. On my hike, I stopped for a barbecue pork sandwich from the Heirloom Deli in Gearhart, and it was stellar.
From there, it’s another 5.3 miles through the rainforest to the remote, backpacker-only camp on Tillamook Head. The site is free, with a toilet and picnic shelter. Set up camp, and then take a short stroll down to a scenic viewpoint. Bring ample water, as there is no water access here.
Day 2 takes you through Ecola State Park, with awe-inspiring views of cliffs and the coastline. Be sure to take your time and stop at each vista; each viewpoint provides another perspective on this unique landscape. After 10.7 miles, you’ll arrive in the bustling tourist town of Cannon Beach. Grab a drink at a local brewery or treat yourself to an ice cream cone.
The best place to camp here is Wright’s for Camping, a family-owned campground that you can (and should) reserve online. From there, it’s possible from Cannon Beach to get public transportation back to your car or to the airport.
Bonus Big Day
If you’ve got a long weekend and want to hike one more day, it’s well worthwhile. Due to where camping is allowed, day 3 is a bit of a doozy, but it’s no less beautiful.
Hike 22.6 miles to Manzanita (the nearest significant town) or 23.9 miles to Nehalem Bay State Park, the nearest campground. You’ll get to see iconic structures like Haystock Rock, which rises imposingly out of the ocean and is home to tufted puffins.
If you like a bit of challenge that gets your legs burning and blood pump-ng, this is the day for you. The track heads up 3,000 feet up (and then 3,000 feet down) Neahkahnie Mountain. As you stand above the clouds at the top, you’ll be glad you made the effort. Adding on day 3 takes the total distance of the trip to 51.9 miles (you may as well just walk in circles to make it an even 52).
Planning & Logistics
Getting There
The closest airport to the start of the trail is Portland International Airport (PDX). It’s possible to take public transportation from the airport all the way to Fort Stevens State Park through a combination of light rail and local bus lines. Learn more about schedules at the NW Connector’s website.
To get back to the airport, you can catch buses from Cannon Beach or Manzanita back to Tillamook, which transfers to Portland. The total fare one-way is about $20, which is a pretty darn good deal.
If you’re driving, you’ll want to coordinate leaving your car at a state park overnight for a fee. Call the individual park to make arrangements. You can then take public transit back to your car.
When to Go
The best times to go are June through August. The weather is the most stable, and wildflowers are in bloom. Temperatures range from 50 to 70 degrees, with almost no humidity. This part of the Oregon coast is extremely popular with tourists, so be sure to book your campsites in advance. Avoid holiday weekends like the Fourth of July.
During the summer, beach towns like Seaside can be quite overrun, but once you’re back in the forest, the crowds melt away.
Campsites
Except for the backpacker camp at Tillamook Head, you’ll want to reserve a spot in advance at all other campgrounds. For Oregon State Parks, you can reserve in advance online. Most of these campgrounds have hiker-biker–only sites that cost far less ($8-17) than normal campsites ($30-57).
You should also reserve a spot at Wright’s for Camping ($60/night). If camping isn’t your thing, there are plenty of hotels, inns, motels, and Airbnbs to stay in at the multiple seaside towns along the trail as well. These will also require advance reservations.
Cost
Embarking on the OCT can be as cheap or expensive as you want it to be. If you’re on a budget (like I was), stick to the hiker-biker campsites and bring your own food. Or, go full luxury and stay in four-star hotels and dine out at local seafood restaurants. It’s truly a build-your-own adventure hike you can tailor to the exact experience and budget you’re looking for.
Unlike many other backpacking trails, there are no permits required. As someone who’s frequently battled with recreation.gov to get a coveted backpacking permit in popular areas, it was a refreshing change of pace to not have to worry about this part of my trip.
Wildlife and Other Considerations
If you’re camping, it’s best practice to bring a bear can or some other manner of bear-safe–approved storage. While black bears are not common, they have been spotted in the area. My main worry was aggressive chipmunks getting into my food, which a bear can also does a fine job protecting against.
You may also spot sea lions or other marine mammals. Take plenty of photos, but be sure to stay at least 50 yards away. While bringing bug spray is always a good idea, I loved how I experienced nearly zero mosquitos on the trail in late June. The winds and proximity to the ocean made these normally pesky bugs a non-issue.
And as on any other trail, stay on the established path and follow Leave No Trace ethics. For updates on trail conditions, check out the Oregon Coast Trail Foundation.
OCT Gear
The gear list for this trip is similar to that of most backpacking trips. If you go in the summer, a 20- or 30-degree sleeping bag will be plenty warm enough. I brought a lightweight fleece, and only wore it once. If you’re prone to sunburn like me, packing a sun hoodie is a good choice.
It is the Pacific Northwest, so a good rain jacket and a pack cover are absolute essentials. Check the weather consistently ahead of your trip to make sure you have the necessary gear for the conditions you’ll be hiking in.
There is a guidebook for the OCT, but if you don’t want to buy it just for a weekend trip, downloading a map is a good choice. I used onX Backcountry maps, where you can download the entirety of the OCT offline.
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